Many novice motorcycle riders begin their education in appropriate motorcycle maintenance with learning how to change the oil and clean and lube the chain. This simple process which should only take fifteen minutes or so can considerably boost the lifetime and usefulness of your motorcycle’s chain and sprockets. You may find a quick step by step guide on how to properly lubricate and clean a motorcycle chain on this page. If you’d like more information see our video on How to Clean and Lube Your Motorcycle Chain. where Lemmy goes into further depth on some of the finer features of motorcycle chain maintenance.
Step 1: Identify your Chain Type
A standard motorbike chain is made up of links that are metal on metal without any sort of seal. Consequently, compared to sealed motorbike chains, simple chains can be cleaned more vigorously. A rubber seal is used between the inner and outer links of sealed motorcycle chains, also known as O-ring, X-ring, or Z-ring chains, to retain grease inside the pin and bushing chamber and keep road filth out. This design calls for a gentler approach to cleaning and contributes to the chain’s longer lifespan.
Step 2: Position the Motorcycle
It is not too difficult to lubricate and clean a motorcycle chain. Whether your bike has a center stand or a paddock stand, it makes things much easier. It is possible to apply chain lubricant and cleaner more effectively by allowing the rear wheel and your motorbike chain to spin freely in either position. It is okay if you do not possess any of the aforementioned stands. With some effort, you can navigate the driveway with your kickstand. Clean one part, then move the motorcycle to enter the next part. Another option would be to take the chain off completely and proceed that way.
Step 3: Check the Sprockets and Chain on the Motorbike
Getting up close and personal with your chain when cleaning is a terrific way to assess its general health. Look for chain wear while you’re down there. How much “wiggle room” does your chain have from side to side? To what extent do the links oscillate when subjected to stress and compression? A well-functioning motorbike chain should permit very little variation in each.
There is also a methodical approach to figuring out when to replace your chain. The maximum length of a specific number of links in your chain will be specified by your shop manual. It’s too worn if there are more linkages than that. Here’s another simple and unofficial method of checking. At the furthest point on the rear wheel sprocket, tug on a chain link. If the chain is really worn, it will pull away from the sprocket instead of hugging it.
Examine the master link. The link that connects the two ends of a motorbike chain is called the master link, and it has a distinctive appearance from the surrounding links. Checking to make sure the master link is secure is a good idea, whether it is secured with a clip or peened rivets.
Additionally, you should check your sprockets. There are several ways that your sprockets might indicate wear depending on your riding style and chain condition. Be alert for “shark fins” and sharp teeth while inspecting worn sprockets. When the front side of the sprocket tooth wears down more than the rear, “shark fins” appear. This occurs on motorcycles that tend to be quickly accelerated and then gradually decelerated (or on bikes with extremely worn chains).
Your motorbike sprocket should generally have flat tooth tips. The trailing edge of the sprocket tooth wears down when they become sharp, caused by both shark fins working in tandem with frequent severe braking and downshifting. Chains and sprockets should generally be replaced at the same time since it is ineffective to put a new chain on a worn-out sprocket.
Step 4: Use Chain Cleaning Spray on the Chain
It’s time to start removing the dirt at this stage. Kerosene will dissolve the current lubrication and dirt particles on the chain just as well, but you can also use something like Maxima Clean Up Chain Cleaner. Don’t be afraid to thoroughly apply it as you move up the chain. While new motorbike chains are expensive, kerosene is not, so apply it liberally.
Step 5: Scrub the Chain
To truly get at the crud that has caked on, use a motorbike chain brush after the chain has been wet. Something like The Grunge Brush, which lets you clean three of the four sides of your motorbike chain at the same time, has been a tried-and-true favorite for years. Be careful. It will be profitable later. A spotless surface facilitates improved motorbike chain lubricant adherence.
Step 6: Reapply Chain Spray on the Motorbike
Re-soak the motorbike chain in your preferred cleaning solution to complete the cleaning step. Make sure that any last trace of chain grime has been blown away. Motorbike chains are killed by gunk, so remove as much of it as you can.
Step 7: Dry the Motorcycle Chain
The motorbike chain lubricant must be applied to a dry area in order for it to stick to the chain. Before lubricating, take your time to completely dry the chain and remove all of the chain cleaner. This is also a good time to tidy up your workspace because, by now, things are probably a little messy.
Step 8: Lubricate the Motorcycle Chain
After the chain is dry and clean, uniformly coat every side with lubrication. There are many different types of chain lubricant that people choose to use, ranging from standard chainsaw bar oil to specialized products like Maxima Chain Wax. The benefit of using a product like Maxima wax is that it is far less prone to fly off the motorbike chain and smear debris on other areas of the vehicle.
There are key distinctions between sealed and plain chains that you should be aware of when it comes to the ideal method for lubricating a motorbike chain. Apply the lubricant generously to simple chains and remove any surplus. The easiest method to guarantee that a simple chain will keep working well for many kilometers to come is to keep it consistently covered with clean lubrication. Contrarily, with sealed chains, the lubrication is provided by the grease inside the O-rings; therefore, you may use chain lubricant more sparingly because it just serves to prevent rust on the chain’s exterior.
